The Holy Lure of Sri Ramanashramam

By G. L. Krishna

I have been a regular visitor to the ashram of Sri Ramana Maharshi in Tiruvannamalai, Tamil Nadu (South India). Spending about 4–5 days in the holy precincts of the Ashram has become a cherished biannual ritual for me. 

I have often reflected on what pulls me toward this sacred place. As devotees of Arunachala would attest, while the pull is deep and real, its full nature defies definitive description. A devotee is like Matthew Arnold’s poet, who feels that sharing the deepest truths is challenging: 

Some secrets may the poet tell, 

For the world loves new ways; 

To tell too deep ones is not well 

It knows not what he says. 

I cannot, I am afraid, fathom those deeper aspects of Arunachala’s pull. So, this piece will focus only on those “secrets that I may tell.” 

 

Perhaps the most striking feature of Sri Ramanashramam is its overwhelming holiness. A sense of entering an unusually pure space dawns on everyone who spends time within its grounds. This feeling is doubly enhanced for the fortunate few who are well-versed in the life and teachings of the Ashram’s presiding sage, Sri Ramana Maharshi. 

The highlight of my stay at the Ashram is the life-giving ritual of meditative pradakshina around the Maharshi’s Samadhi shrine. I take about half an hour for this circumambulation, and at the end of each session, emerge rejuvenated. Bathing in the Maharshi’s serene grace has been one of the most blessed experiences of my life. So much so that I jocularly call myself Pradakshinananda! 

Trekking the holy mountain while reminiscing about the dramatic events that drew the young Venkatraman from Madurai to Arunachala is another cherished part of my routine at Ramanashramam. “Arunachala is not the abode of Shiva; Arunachala is Shiva himself!” Maharshi often said. The local Tamil tradition of fondly calling the mountain “Appa Arunachala” (Father Arunachala) conveys the deep filial affection devotees feel toward it.

The mountain drew Ramana to itself, and Ramana, in turn, drew his mother to him. Skandashramam, where the mother and son lived, stands as a reminder of Alagammal’s motherliness, which moved even a jivanmukta (liberated sage). This site embodies the power of Satsanga (holy company). 

The effects of the mountain trek, coupled with the excellence of the Ashram’s food, create a ravenous appetite in all healthy visitors. The thick, lentil-filled sambar served over ghee-smeared rice becomes a veritable oblation to the raging Vaishvanara (fire god) in the stomach! The Maharshi’s reminders to practice restraint in food intake are the only safeguards preventing one from becoming a glutton in the Ashram’s dining hall. 

The smells, sounds, and sights of the Ashram combine to create an unforgettable experience for the sincere devotee. The fragrance of flowers in the Matrubhuteshwara temple, the sonorous Vedic chants of children, the sight of abhisheka (ritual bathing) over the Ramaneshvara Mahalinga, and the cows grazing lazily against the backdrop of the mighty mountain - all linger in the mind for joyful recollection. Few experiences are as sensory yet spiritual. 

Sri Ramana Maharshi was the truest egalitarian. Narayana Guru, the renowned social reformer, held him in high admiration. Unlike the egalitarianism of modern times, the Maharshi was neither showy nor combative. He could see only Paramatma everywhere. True to his legacy, Sri Ramanashramam today is a paradise of egalitarian virtues. People from all socio-economic backgrounds stand calmly in line during the morning Narayana Seva to receive their food. Room allocation is not based on financial status, and remarkably, the Ashram charges no rent for accommodations. The president of the Ashram behaves like any other devotee, with no “VIP darshan” or special treatment for the wealthy. Everyone is treated equally and with care. 

All in all, what one gains from one’s stay at Sri Ramanashramam is a rendezvous with the finest aspects of Bharata’s nature and culture. One leaves the Ashram rejuvenated, yet with a deep longing to return again and again.